Counter Culture 

On a sunny day, it's tough to beat lunch at a café table or even taking a sandwich, a drink and some pastry to the boardwalk. A brisk walk from the view of the boats in Eureka is Delish on 5th, where you can outfit a legitimately enviable picnic basket. The far end of the deli case holds dozens of cheeses, a tumble of hunks, wedges, wheels and blocks from near (like Cypress Grove Lambchopper) and far (like Spanish Campo de Montalban). Likewise, the rows of specialty meats on the other side that run from merguez sausages, prosciutto di Parma and French hams to haunt your charcuterie board dreams. "I'm trying to choose things you can't find everywhere," says owner Christine Silver. Many of these come from small farm producers, with an eye on traditional sustainable methods.

The small portions are partly inspired by a trip to France, where Silver came to appreciate daily shopping and a break from the habit of American bulk buying. "You're eating more fresh food. And that's how I like to eat," she says. Some of the meats and cheeses are available by the quarter pound, like the buttery farmers cheese and sopressata Molina — ask and the staff will make them into sandwiches on focaccia or a house-made baguette. Better throw in a side of homemade giardiniera. OK, maybe a jar of shiny fried fennel-spiced Marcona almonds, too.

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• Amy Kumler
• Owner Christine Silver fills the bakery case with treats.

If the choices overwhelm, there's a standing menu (and a hot pastrami) that's not to be overlooked. The grilled vegetable sandwich on grilled focaccia is stuffed with artichoke, red pepper, onions, tomatoes and greens. More artichokes show up in the Delish salad, along with white beans, tomatoes, cucumbers and mozzarella. Pair that with some wine, fancy sparkling water, kombucha or one of the local brews, like The Booth's popular Kukmin IPA, and you're set.

Turn around and you'll face a bakery case stocked with staples like lingonberry muffins, thick chocolate chip cookies and brownies, deeply caramelized cinnamon arlettes or peach pie brought in from an Oregon orchard. That and whatever strikes Silver's fancy to bake on a given morning, like the Nutella twists we recently happened upon or a tall chocolate cake.

While your sandwich is assembled, you can browse the kitchen boutique half of the shop. You'll find shelves of pots, artisanal pastas, bespoke olive oils and jarred pickles, cheese knives, kitchen gadgets and sweet cotton kitchen towels to spoil the home chef in your life, especially if that's you.